COASTAL
The Coast Mountains of British Columbia offer some of the wildest, most remote landscapes on Earth.
Stretching North from Vancouver, they continue unihibited for approximately 1600 kilometres.
What makes this range so special?
Maybe it is the sheer scale of wilderness it contains; maybe since it is a safe haven from modern civilization; or maybe it is the aestethic aspect that you can ridge walk a large majority of the range. It is most likely a mixture of all these and more.
The Coast contains one of the world's last remaining strongholds of indigenous culture, it is a place that remains relatively the same as it was thousands of years ago. It is a place where the spirits of the land still speak to those humans who search far & high within themselves and their land.
The People and the Land are One
North from Squamish: Powell River, Sunshine Coast.
Any climber who has spent the Summer in or around Squamish might notice something...IT IS BUSY. For some of us this is welcomed, for others it is the opposite direction from the wilderness experience we seek out while climbing. Where will us wild ones go now that Canada's climbing mecca is going through its great gentrification. Simple: Powell River.
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The town of Powell River, located in Tl’lamin Nation has a population of 13 000 resident. It sits only 100km away from Vancouver yet within its backyard is a drastically under-explored stretch of fantastic alpine wilderness. Dozens of rugged river valleys filled with granite walls on scale with the hallowed Yosemite Valley wind their way respectively to the regions boundaries: Geologic wonder Jervis Inlet forming the Southeastern extent, the stunningly turquoise Toba Inlet forming the Northern flank and the Western reaches fall down to Desolation Sound and the Discovery Passage. Ocean, gargantuan rocks, a whole lot of forest and the exploratory spirit; they are what make the coast what it is... Breathtaking. The town of Powell River, located in Tl’lamin Nation has a population of 13 000 resident. It sits only 100km away from Vancouver yet within its backyard is a drastically under-explored stretch of fantastic alpine wilderness. Dozens of rugged river valleys filled with granite walls on scale with the hallowed Yosemite Valley wind their way respectively to the regions boundaries: Geologic wonder Jervis Inlet forming the Southeastern extent, the stunningly turquoise Toba Inlet forming the Northern flank and the Western reaches fall down to Desolation Sound and the Discovery Passage. Ocean, gargantuan rocks, a whole lot of forest and the exploratory spirit; they are what make the coast what it is... WILD.
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The mythical Eldred River Valley is Powell River's "hidden" climbing mecca. Although known by many in the loop, it is rarely visited by dedicated adventure seeking climbers thus denoting upon it a myterious mystique.. "The Valley" as it is called by locals boasts world-class climbing for all disciplines. It has 10x more rock than Squamish, walls nearly as tall as El Capitan, alpine potential unheard of so close to civilization, infinite bouldering potential, and most importantly 75km of remote uninhabited river valley. These are a part of what make this valley magic. It was this freedom that drew me to explore the Eldred in 2016. Myself, partner and many friends spent our entire Summer in The Valley. Here are some stories to hopefully inspire more adventurous climbers to come live in The Valley next year...2017... the year we move one step further up The Coast!
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Eldred River Valley: The Big Walls
Psyche Slab
Not exactly a "big wall", but The Valley's most developed formation. Picture the Apron in Squamish, only as tall as the entire Chief. This is Psyche Slab. Host to 16 routes ranging 1-14 pitches long ranging in difficulty from 5.7-511.+.
West Main Wall -- "The Mainer"
"The Mainer" as they call it is The Valley's "El Capitan". Standing at 2800ft tall and stretching nearly 3km wide its oceans of beautifully featured granite make any trad climber wide-eyed with excitement,, while its 1000ft unclimbed headwall glowing gold and flaming orange arouse the sensibilities of any adventurous strong sport climber. Although it has seen ascents (some epic), and hosts 23 pitch free routes, as well as 6 pitch moderates it's potential is HIGHLY untapped. An entire summer could be devoted to "The Mainer". Any takers?
Carag-Dur
At 2100ft tall Carag-Dur rises steeply from valley floor to sub-alpine. The FA went to Matt Maddaloni & John Millar in 1999: "Funk Soul Brother" VI 5.7 A4+. Carag-Dur offers some of The Valley's best short multi-pitch as well longer moderate 10 pitch routes. Potential for more lines is huge!
Amon Rudh
The Cream of the Crop. There is more rock situated on Amon Rudh and nearby to rival the entirety of Squamish. It sits high enough off the valley floor to stay "clinically clean" by Coastal standards. "On the Virg" V 5.10-, 10 pitches, was established in 1999 and has since seen only 5 ascents. Parties hoping to new route on perfect granite in a idyllic setting should look no further. Many new routes are poised to be completed in 2017, making Amon Rudh one of The Valley's most highly sought destinations.
The High Country: Clinically Clean Granite & Alpine Wonderlands
From every side the areas dramatic relief (up to 2500m) abruptly rises off the ocean shore. Behind the forested flanks lie the sparkling granite peaks and their connecting ridges extending in every direction, offering some of the world’s greatest “High Routes”. The “Skyline Traverses” as coined by legendary Coast Range explorers John Clarke & Baldwin.
“They are a unique bit of geography not found elsewhere in the Coast Mountains and seldom in other mountain ranges. Typically, mountain ridgetops are difficult to travel but these high coastal divides define routes that can be traveled with relative ease for two to three weeks or more”. – John Baldwin
Lucky for us the Powell River area is host to the Coast’s most accessible, attainable 5 star heart-meltingly beautiful skyline traverses. Outlined are some of the areas finest hiking/general mountaineering routes. As well as an infinite supply of alpine crack climbing potential. Get out and explore!
Topping out Amon Rudh late June. Mount Baldy & Slide Mountain in background.
"The Road to Zion" from Repeater Pk to Mount Baldy. Vancouver Island and Georgia Straight in background.
Fondling clinically clean granite in the Emerald Valley. Alpine FA's abound by the thousand. photo: Matt H.
North Powell Divide
FA: John Clarke 1984
65km, 6500m elevation gain/loss
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One of Coastal BC's finest High Routes. Spanning from the Eldred River Valley to Toba Inlet it is a transcendental trip for advanced hikers. 40km of ridge keep you on top of the world for numerous days on a thin sinuous divide. Dotted with alpine lakes hanging below sheer granite walls and countless tarns this trip define the rugged nature of Coastal BC.
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This trip has seen under 10 ascents since John Clarke epic'd his way from Toba Inlet to Eldred River Valley. Get on it, go get it.
South Powell Divide
FA: Rob Wood, Rob Richards, Al Parsons,
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The baby sister to the North Powell. A 40km non-technical hiking trip which takes you from valley floor to oceans of slab, to idyllic emerald lakes, and even a fully stocked alpine hut.
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The route has multiple access points and can be done in its entirety or broken into smaller sections: Overlook to Emma Lake, or Emma Lake to Centre Lakes. It is recommended to start and finish your trip from the CAD Climber's Camp at Mile 34 in the Eldred River Valley.
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Daniels Divide
FA: John Clarke 1989
55km, 5000 metres elevation gain/loss
Does hiking one of the world's most beautiful routes sound appealing?? Well, this one is for you. The Daniels Divide is spectacular to say the least. You begin the trip underneath 1200 metre granite walls, follow elk trails to a sublime alpine lake and follow one of the purest ridge tops all the way back to your beginning at Powell Lake. There have been less than 5 parties to complete the trip. This should change quickly in the coming years as people begin to discover The Daniels River Valley, a place that makes Yosemite Valley look tiny.
